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Gemological Characteristics - The Four C's - Cut

The cut (and shape) of a diamond is the fourth major characteristic used in determining its value.  It is perhaps the
most important one of all because it determines the diamond's overall brilliance and vibrancy.

Usually, the cut of the diamond is associated with the shape of the diamond.  Although the "cut" can describe the shape
and facetting pattern of the diamond, it also describes the accuracy of the facetting and the proportion of the stone, as
well as the polish or surface finish of the diamond.

The cut influences the amount of light reflected and refracted back out of the diamond to the eye of the observer, and that
determines the diamond's brilliance and as a result, its value.

The Belgian mathematician, Marcel Tolkowski, determined the optimum proportions or "ideal cut" for round diamonds.
His formula indicates that the proper diameter size for a 1.00 carat weight diamond should be between 6.3 to 6.5 mm.
The Size to Weight Ratio Chart illustrates his optimum diameter for various carat weight gemstones:

The remaining dimensions for "Total Depth," "Table Width," "Girdle Thickness," "Crown Height," "and "Pavillion Height"
can be determined by using the GIA "Ideal to Very Fine Cut" proportion standards shown in the following illustration.
The standards adhere to Tolkowsky's "Ideal" specifications but with some tolerance built in:

The modern round brilliant cut has fifty-seven (57) facets (polished faces) with thirty-three (33) facets on the Crown (the
top half) and twenty-four (24) on the Pavillion (the lower half).  The "Girdle" is the thin middle portion usually 1% - 2% of
the diameter required to prevent the diamond from easily chipping in the setting.  The Crown disperses light into various
colors and the Pavillion reflects light that enters the gemstone back out through the Crown of the diamond.  The "culet" is
a tiny point or facet at the bottom of the Pavillion.  It should be very small to prevent light from escaping from the bottom.

When a diamond is cut correctly, the entire Pavallion is turned into a mirror.  If the cut is too shallow or too deep, the
gemstone will look "lifeless," even if it is of the highest quality, because light is escaping out of the Pavillion,  See
illustrations:

The cut of the diamond is vital to its overall worth, because a poor cut diamond with the exact same quality grade as an
"ideal" cut diamond can be 30% lower in value.

The GIA Standards for "cut" are:

Class 1: Ideal

Class 2: Very Fine

Class 3: Fair, and

Class 4: Poor

The Four C's:

Carat (weight)  | Color  |  Clarity  |  Cut  |


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